V., J.D. V., J.D.

B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law

The True Cost:  A Fashion Documentary Behind Manufacturing--

While many see fashion and the industry at large to be frivolous and superficial, it's actually a billion-dollar market with many very serious issues.  Garment production is one of the most serious--especially when it comes to the working conditions employees are subject to.

The fast-fashion niche, you know--the likes of Forever 21, H&M, Zara, etc.--have created their own place in the industry.  This segment has many positives, particularly for young shoppers, shoppers on a budget, and anyone needing something trendy in a hurry.  However, negatives have come along with this market, too.  They've been on the receiving end of lawsuits for infringement on high fashion/designer styles, discriminatory hiring practices, and the labor conditions of their factories.  Fast-fashion is all about filling the racks in a hurry.  Someone has to make those garments--often under harsh conditions.

Things have changed drastically over the last few decades.  In the 1960s, 95% of American attire was made right here in the states.  Now, that number is flipped to about 97% produced overseas.  



Executive Producer Livia Firth of The True Cost, a documentary digging deep into a number of these issues, noted at the NY screening "We are sold this myth that to buy a dress for under $10 is democratic--but it's democratic for who?  We discard faster and faster, and that is how the consumer becomes poorer and poorer.  2 of the 10 richest men in the world are the owners of Zara and H&M.  I think it says a lot about how they make their money." 

Her film delves into the realities of factory workers in places like Bangladesh and Columbia.  It puts a face behind the garments so many throw on and throw away.  Stepping far behind the scenes of your favorite mall stop, you'll see a story behind every thread, of people who can't afford what they make, and what they endure during production.

Check the trailer. This is a must-see. 

The True Cost is currently available on iTunesAmazon, DVD, and Blu-ray.  

For more on labor issues in fashion, click here.



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V., J.D. V., J.D.

B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law

International Production: Fashion's Trip Around the World--


Over the last few weeks, there have been numerous reports about the conditions of textile factories.  These establishments have had subpar working conditions and are havens for unruly demands upon the workforce.  The impact on the labor force is major.  Workers in Zara's Argentinean factory were working 16 hours with no break, in dimly lit spaces.  Children worked there, too.  Moving production is definitely now a consideration.  A Bangladesh factory, riddled with code violations and poor working conditions collapsed in late April.  A worker was found in the wreckage a few weeks later.

The impact on the fashion industry is major, too.  Factories are shifting production to other countries because of rising wages and labor shortages in China.  China has long been an international capital of clothing production, but a shift appears to be afoot.  Lever Style, founded in Hong Kong, produces attire for a number of American apparel companies.  Their employee count has dropped by 1/3 in the last 2 years.  Like other garment manufacturers and designer brands, other locations for production are catching their eye. 

Coach is shifting production to other countries, reducing reliance on China. Nordstrom is moving to India. They have 450 factories on 40 countries.  China is the world's largest recipient of foreign direct investment, although growth is starting to decrease.  U.S. retailers profit margins average 1-2% according to National Retail Federation.  

Production location is less important to retailers, while quality is paramount.  Uniqlo is the largest apparel chain in Asia. It makes 70% of its clothing in China.

So why not have more production here? American citizens simply live in a different world with different expectations. The conditions laborers accept overseas would hardly fly here.  Many countries just don't have the employment law standards and practices so common here.  Is this any reason to keep production out of the States?  Is this system just part of the globalization scene, letting each nation do what they do best?


What do you think?  Should we have more clothing production here, or keep things as they are?

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