B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
France Takes A Stand Against Unhealthy Modeling--
Just as U.S. Congresswoman Meng (D-NY) is working to address child labor issues in the United States, France is working to improve the culture of fashion modeling in one of the industry's oldest markets.
To ensure the reforms are real, France is requiring doctors' approval for models to participate in shows, proving they are not too thin, and healthy enough to take the catwalk. This is a major step in an industry that's been fighting labor health and image issues for so long. The bill passed by the French National Assembly also requires photos which have edited a model's appearance to note what edit was made.
Similar to the laws already in place in Italy, Spain, and Israel, France's law includes fines for modeling agencies and advertisers in non-compliance. While there is no law of this kind in America, we hope this is the start of a trend to promote not only healthy bodies in the modeling industry--of all sizes, but positive body images and high self-esteem, too.
Cheers to France on this move.
Just as U.S. Congresswoman Meng (D-NY) is working to address child labor issues in the United States, France is working to improve the culture of fashion modeling in one of the industry's oldest markets.
To ensure the reforms are real, France is requiring doctors' approval for models to participate in shows, proving they are not too thin, and healthy enough to take the catwalk. This is a major step in an industry that's been fighting labor health and image issues for so long. The bill passed by the French National Assembly also requires photos which have edited a model's appearance to note what edit was made.
Similar to the laws already in place in Italy, Spain, and Israel, France's law includes fines for modeling agencies and advertisers in non-compliance. While there is no law of this kind in America, we hope this is the start of a trend to promote not only healthy bodies in the modeling industry--of all sizes, but positive body images and high self-esteem, too.
Cheers to France on this move.
B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
The True Cost: A Fashion Documentary Behind Manufacturing--
While many see fashion and the industry at large to be frivolous and superficial, it's actually a billion-dollar market with many very serious issues. Garment production is one of the most serious--especially when it comes to the working conditions employees are subject to.
The fast-fashion niche, you know--the likes of Forever 21, H&M, Zara, etc.--have created their own place in the industry. This segment has many positives, particularly for young shoppers, shoppers on a budget, and anyone needing something trendy in a hurry. However, negatives have come along with this market, too. They've been on the receiving end of lawsuits for infringement on high fashion/designer styles, discriminatory hiring practices, and the labor conditions of their factories. Fast-fashion is all about filling the racks in a hurry. Someone has to make those garments--often under harsh conditions.
Things have changed drastically over the last few decades. In the 1960s, 95% of American attire was made right here in the states. Now, that number is flipped to about 97% produced overseas.
Executive Producer Livia Firth of The True Cost, a documentary digging deep into a number of these issues, noted at the NY screening "We are sold this myth that to buy a dress for under $10 is democratic--but it's democratic for who? We discard faster and faster, and that is how the consumer becomes poorer and poorer. 2 of the 10 richest men in the world are the owners of Zara and H&M. I think it says a lot about how they make their money."
Her film delves into the realities of factory workers in places like Bangladesh and Columbia. It puts a face behind the garments so many throw on and throw away. Stepping far behind the scenes of your favorite mall stop, you'll see a story behind every thread, of people who can't afford what they make, and what they endure during production.
Check the trailer. This is a must-see.
The True Cost is currently available on iTunes, Amazon, DVD, and Blu-ray.
For more on labor issues in fashion, click here.
While many see fashion and the industry at large to be frivolous and superficial, it's actually a billion-dollar market with many very serious issues. Garment production is one of the most serious--especially when it comes to the working conditions employees are subject to.
The fast-fashion niche, you know--the likes of Forever 21, H&M, Zara, etc.--have created their own place in the industry. This segment has many positives, particularly for young shoppers, shoppers on a budget, and anyone needing something trendy in a hurry. However, negatives have come along with this market, too. They've been on the receiving end of lawsuits for infringement on high fashion/designer styles, discriminatory hiring practices, and the labor conditions of their factories. Fast-fashion is all about filling the racks in a hurry. Someone has to make those garments--often under harsh conditions.
Things have changed drastically over the last few decades. In the 1960s, 95% of American attire was made right here in the states. Now, that number is flipped to about 97% produced overseas.
Executive Producer Livia Firth of The True Cost, a documentary digging deep into a number of these issues, noted at the NY screening "We are sold this myth that to buy a dress for under $10 is democratic--but it's democratic for who? We discard faster and faster, and that is how the consumer becomes poorer and poorer. 2 of the 10 richest men in the world are the owners of Zara and H&M. I think it says a lot about how they make their money."
Her film delves into the realities of factory workers in places like Bangladesh and Columbia. It puts a face behind the garments so many throw on and throw away. Stepping far behind the scenes of your favorite mall stop, you'll see a story behind every thread, of people who can't afford what they make, and what they endure during production.
Check the trailer. This is a must-see.
The True Cost is currently available on iTunes, Amazon, DVD, and Blu-ray.
For more on labor issues in fashion, click here.
B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
DVF Urges Fair Treatment of Models--
Diane von Furstenberg is such a fashion icon. She's a trailblazer in so many ways. She brought us the wrap dress, has been a major supporter of anti-piracy legislation for fashion on Capitol Hill, and worked with fashion law leader Susan Scafidi in establishing the Fashion Law Institute. Now, she's commanding fair treatment of models as NYFW gets rolling this Wednesday.
Sure, fair treatment of models is nothing new. We've talked about labor issues models face and the work Stand Up For Fashion (STUFF) has done. The push from such a fashion powerhouse just might be, though. For years, major fashion week participants have been scrutinized for their lack of diversity in runway shows and the self-esteem damaging atmosphere for the models they do choose. As longtime President of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), Ms. von Furstenberg is saying loudly--no more!
Along with CFDA CEO Steven Kolb, Diane has penned a letter, encouraging this upcoming fashion week be just as much about debuting new trends and styles as it is debuting new attitudes. She continues to remind us, beauty and fashion start on the inside.
Check out the letter for yourself.
We love DVF, don't you?!
B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
The Battle of Counterfeits in Big Cities, Part 2--
Last week we talked about the fight big cities are having against counterfeits. Places like Chicago, New York, and Atlanta--largely because of their transportation centers--are consistently working to keep the counterfeit market in check within their borders. Today, we're going to talk about how the counterfeit chain begins.
How do counterfeits come to the market in the first place?
Counterfeits are considered products purporting to be part of a popular designer brand, but sold in what we'll call a shady way. Designer items are sold directly from their source, or through licensing agreements permitting items to be sold in other outlets. An example of such licensing would be Christian Louboutin shoes being sold at Bloomingdale's. Bloomingdale's has an agreement with Louboutin allowing them to sell their shoes in the store.
What happens in the counterfeit market is contrary to direct sales or licensing agreements. Items which look a lot like the real deal show up in places the designer has not authorized, and the price is always far less than the true value or market price of the item. Often, counterfeits circulate through the market innocently, when consumers buy them from sources they trust, like friends having "purse parties" or donations to charitable organizations. However, the source to these innocent consumers is far from innocent. They may start at a place like Canal St. in NYC or boutiques claiming to have deals on designer items. The items come in in droves. Here's how the chain starts.
Gray Market Production
We know the black market is where items are sold illegally. Well, the gray market is somewhat similar. The gray market is created when factories licensed to produce designer goods under certain terms and conditions step outside those boundaries and create their own, infringing items.
As an example, a factory is licensed to produce Chanel bags under the protocol provided by Chanel. Bags are to be made from 9am local time to 5pm, using specific materials and methods. At 5:30, the production continues, but the items are 1) unauthorized by Chanel, and 2) produced in such a way to make consumers believe the goods are Chanel, but protect the infringing bag-maker from a quick infringement, contracting, and licensing lawsuit. The goods get shipped, and in the best cases, they're stopped at customs to protect designers and consumers from infringing products. No worries, the lawsuit does come later.
This gray market method is one of the largest sources of counterfeit goods and is the baseline of a billion-dollar market. To curb the negative effects of this market, a myriad of things must be done: legislation, brand vigilance, accurate contracting, policing, and more.
Share with us how you feel about counterfeits, fakes, and knockoffs. Let's keep the conversation going.
Stay tuned for more on international production and fashion labor.
*Designer goods is a fairly loose term when used in this article. It does not describe high priced goods only, it includes items at any price point, but specifically those protected by a trademark or brand recognition in some way. Price is not a factor.
Last week we talked about the fight big cities are having against counterfeits. Places like Chicago, New York, and Atlanta--largely because of their transportation centers--are consistently working to keep the counterfeit market in check within their borders. Today, we're going to talk about how the counterfeit chain begins.
How do counterfeits come to the market in the first place?
Counterfeits are considered products purporting to be part of a popular designer brand, but sold in what we'll call a shady way. Designer items are sold directly from their source, or through licensing agreements permitting items to be sold in other outlets. An example of such licensing would be Christian Louboutin shoes being sold at Bloomingdale's. Bloomingdale's has an agreement with Louboutin allowing them to sell their shoes in the store.
What happens in the counterfeit market is contrary to direct sales or licensing agreements. Items which look a lot like the real deal show up in places the designer has not authorized, and the price is always far less than the true value or market price of the item. Often, counterfeits circulate through the market innocently, when consumers buy them from sources they trust, like friends having "purse parties" or donations to charitable organizations. However, the source to these innocent consumers is far from innocent. They may start at a place like Canal St. in NYC or boutiques claiming to have deals on designer items. The items come in in droves. Here's how the chain starts.
Gray Market Production
We know the black market is where items are sold illegally. Well, the gray market is somewhat similar. The gray market is created when factories licensed to produce designer goods under certain terms and conditions step outside those boundaries and create their own, infringing items.
As an example, a factory is licensed to produce Chanel bags under the protocol provided by Chanel. Bags are to be made from 9am local time to 5pm, using specific materials and methods. At 5:30, the production continues, but the items are 1) unauthorized by Chanel, and 2) produced in such a way to make consumers believe the goods are Chanel, but protect the infringing bag-maker from a quick infringement, contracting, and licensing lawsuit. The goods get shipped, and in the best cases, they're stopped at customs to protect designers and consumers from infringing products. No worries, the lawsuit does come later.
This gray market method is one of the largest sources of counterfeit goods and is the baseline of a billion-dollar market. To curb the negative effects of this market, a myriad of things must be done: legislation, brand vigilance, accurate contracting, policing, and more.
Share with us how you feel about counterfeits, fakes, and knockoffs. Let's keep the conversation going.
Stay tuned for more on international production and fashion labor.
*Designer goods is a fairly loose term when used in this article. It does not describe high priced goods only, it includes items at any price point, but specifically those protected by a trademark or brand recognition in some way. Price is not a factor.
B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
Models Face Labor Concerns, Too--
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Keep up with her journey and follow Yomi on Twitter!
To learn more about Stand Up For Fashion, click here!
Niches in the fashion industry--you've obviously come to the right place! Model Yomi Abiola has created an amazing segment of fashion, often dismissed by the world at large. Typically, the labor issues in the fashion industry have to do with sweatshops and jobs outsourced from American companies. Those issues are of critical importance--they hedge on human rights and proper wages. However, the models face their own issues as well.
Yomi launched Stand Up for Fashion (STUFF) to promote fair labor practices in the industry. Her initiative opposes the use of underage models, promotes diversity, and improves working conditions.
In their own words:
STUFF stands for change in the industry
STUFF encourages diversity, equality, inclusion
STUFF transforms our society through the power of fashion
Yomi is a Nigerian model and contributor to Vogue Italia. Her experience is greater than modeling--she also works on cultural issues with the UN. Yomi is not only using her beauty to bring people together, but her brain and dynamic energy as well.
“The only time that people from fashion come together is at fashion shows or fashion parties, but in terms of having a real dialog about the business of fashion … it is not something that has been done at all,” Abiola said.
Labor issues in fashion are sometimes ignored because of the glam and glitz we see on the runway. Surely there can't be problems. Wrong! Underaged models are not paid as they should be, child labor laws are broken, good health is not encouraged for many models of all ages, and diversity in ethnicity, size, and appearance in general are far from prevalent. It's time the industry and its supporters take a stand to make things as fab on the inside as they appear on the outside.
“Every industry comes together” to talk about pressing issues, “but the fashion industry never stands for anything beyond fashion,” said Shauna Mei, founder and CEO AHAlife, a high-end gift website supporting STUFF.
As she works to make this issue known across the world, Yomi has made the promotion of "true beauty" a priority, particularly with young women. Often, we find beauty ads showing less of the product's ability, and more editing and Photoshop savvy. This is not the message young women need, especially with bullying so rampant. Yomi is working as a fashion model, model citizen, and role model.
We are excited about STUFF and the awareness Yomi is working to promote. You will find more of their projects here, as we all should take part in improving these conditions.
In their own words:
STUFF stands for change in the industry
STUFF encourages diversity, equality, inclusion
STUFF transforms our society through the power of fashion
Yomi is a Nigerian model and contributor to Vogue Italia. Her experience is greater than modeling--she also works on cultural issues with the UN. Yomi is not only using her beauty to bring people together, but her brain and dynamic energy as well.
“The only time that people from fashion come together is at fashion shows or fashion parties, but in terms of having a real dialog about the business of fashion … it is not something that has been done at all,” Abiola said.
Labor issues in fashion are sometimes ignored because of the glam and glitz we see on the runway. Surely there can't be problems. Wrong! Underaged models are not paid as they should be, child labor laws are broken, good health is not encouraged for many models of all ages, and diversity in ethnicity, size, and appearance in general are far from prevalent. It's time the industry and its supporters take a stand to make things as fab on the inside as they appear on the outside.
“Every industry comes together” to talk about pressing issues, “but the fashion industry never stands for anything beyond fashion,” said Shauna Mei, founder and CEO AHAlife, a high-end gift website supporting STUFF.
As she works to make this issue known across the world, Yomi has made the promotion of "true beauty" a priority, particularly with young women. Often, we find beauty ads showing less of the product's ability, and more editing and Photoshop savvy. This is not the message young women need, especially with bullying so rampant. Yomi is working as a fashion model, model citizen, and role model.
We are excited about STUFF and the awareness Yomi is working to promote. You will find more of their projects here, as we all should take part in improving these conditions.
Keep up with her journey and follow Yomi on Twitter!
To learn more about Stand Up For Fashion, click here!