B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
Burberry Trailblazes "See Now, Buy Now"; Skirts Fakes
With smartphones being more commonplace than almost
any other item in our daily lives, they've had both positive and harmful affects on the fashion industry. The "Runway to Rack" model has created its own lane in fashion, and unfortunately hurt designers. This is the business model allowing a photo of a runway design to immediately hit a manufacturing table, and in as little as 2 weeks--a fast fashion rack. Luxury, and even startup brands have struggled with this quite a bit in the last decade or so. Technology, talent, and sales all cut both ways.
any other item in our daily lives, they've had both positive and harmful affects on the fashion industry. The "Runway to Rack" model has created its own lane in fashion, and unfortunately hurt designers. This is the business model allowing a photo of a runway design to immediately hit a manufacturing table, and in as little as 2 weeks--a fast fashion rack. Luxury, and even startup brands have struggled with this quite a bit in the last decade or so. Technology, talent, and sales all cut both ways.
"See Now, Buy Now"
Burberry is changing the tide. Starting in September, the iconic British luxury brand will start hosting only 2 runway shows a year, and make the looks seen on the runway immediately available for purchase. Versus Versace has endeavored on something similar. This will certainly help in circumventing how the "Runway to Rack" method has cramped high fashion's brand protection.
More Changes Coming?
This new approach will continue Burberry's show of leadership in digital marketing, as well as complement the CFDA's review of the traditional fashion calendar. Social media is clearly showing it is here to stay. Burberry is showing its longevity is, too.
Thanks to Fashionista.com for this tip!
B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
Fast Fashion Has In-Fighting Over Copies--
Retailer H&M is suing its fellow fast fashion colleague, Forever 21 over copyright infringement. H&M claims Forever 21 is selling a "Beach Please" bag, distinctly made for H&M, which was also registered for a copyright this past June. The sales have continued even after cease and desist letters.
The story here seems to be a tad bit more about the irony of one fast fashion retailer suing another. Both are widely known for taking designs straight from the runway to their quick manufacturers, then sales floor within weeks. Forever 21 is said to have commissioned one of their loyal Chinese manufacturers for the H&M bag copy. Both retailers have been sued over copies in the past--several times. 
It will be interesting to see how this one plays out. Forever 21 is known for settling their infringement suits under the table. Maybe this will be no different. There are many arguments on both sides for protection of fashion designs expanding past prints and patterns. Usually, the fight is between a luxury retailer and fast fashion giant...or even a boutique designer and established retailer. How will 2 common infringers settle it? Nevertheless, there's something more to be hammered out here.
For more on fashion law and infringement's damage, check out these posts!
B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
"I'll Just Get Another One"--Is Fast Fashion Killing Your Pocket?
Today, we quickly run to stores like Zara, H&M, or Forever 21 (me included, but I'm working on improving my ethical fashionista practices, ok?!). While those stores give us the quick fix we need, often at their risk of an infringement lawsuit, they also present problems for our pocketbooks. With a plethora of reasonably priced costume jewelry, t-shirts and dresses to last for a few wears, it's hard not to fall into the trap of spending. Unfortunately, the trap is actually a spiral.
When fashion first hit the map in the way we know it today--you know, when Charles Worth started putting labels with his name on them in the garments he made--consumers were not only buying custom pieces, but making investments. We're a bit departed from that today.
Today, we quickly run to stores like Zara, H&M, or Forever 21 (me included, but I'm working on improving my ethical fashionista practices, ok?!). While those stores give us the quick fix we need, often at their risk of an infringement lawsuit, they also present problems for our pocketbooks. With a plethora of reasonably priced costume jewelry, t-shirts and dresses to last for a few wears, it's hard not to fall into the trap of spending. Unfortunately, the trap is actually a spiral.
Going back to the days of Charles Worth, garments, and probably accessories, too were made to last. Shoppers considered them investments. They may have had to wear them a bit more often than we'd like to don outfits these days, but the pieces were solid. They should have been, and should be. They were quality. Today, the garments at fast fashion outlets not only skirt the line of infringing on a designer's hard work (both established and new designers), but also put a hurting on the pocketbook--subconsciously.
What consumers aren't considering when buying 5 dresses for $100 is, "they'll be back". They'll be back soon. Those $20 dresses will only last so long before falling victim to the washing machine or an easily snapped string one way or another. At first blush, the response is--"I'll get another one." Yep, and put more money into the hands of companies with questionable labor practices or terrible corporate cultures--the discriminatory and disrespectful kind. (See Zara) We'll continue to help the owners of Zara and H&M be 2 of the 10 richest people on the planet. What's also happening is more money coming out of the consumer's pocket. Every single time a purchase is made for a quick fix, it's less money to be spent on something made of better quality; something which will last longer and wear better.
Very few of us are completely innocent in feeding this bad habit. Hopefully though, we'll all think twice when we turn down the $45 garment for 3-$50 ones. Sometimes, that's a great deal. Sometimes, it's a raw deal.
For more on ethical fashion, click here!
B.A.F.F.L.E.D. Fashion Law
The True Cost: A Fashion Documentary Behind Manufacturing--
While many see fashion and the industry at large to be frivolous and superficial, it's actually a billion-dollar market with many very serious issues. Garment production is one of the most serious--especially when it comes to the working conditions employees are subject to.
The fast-fashion niche, you know--the likes of Forever 21, H&M, Zara, etc.--have created their own place in the industry. This segment has many positives, particularly for young shoppers, shoppers on a budget, and anyone needing something trendy in a hurry. However, negatives have come along with this market, too. They've been on the receiving end of lawsuits for infringement on high fashion/designer styles, discriminatory hiring practices, and the labor conditions of their factories. Fast-fashion is all about filling the racks in a hurry. Someone has to make those garments--often under harsh conditions.
Things have changed drastically over the last few decades. In the 1960s, 95% of American attire was made right here in the states. Now, that number is flipped to about 97% produced overseas.
Executive Producer Livia Firth of The True Cost, a documentary digging deep into a number of these issues, noted at the NY screening "We are sold this myth that to buy a dress for under $10 is democratic--but it's democratic for who? We discard faster and faster, and that is how the consumer becomes poorer and poorer. 2 of the 10 richest men in the world are the owners of Zara and H&M. I think it says a lot about how they make their money."
Her film delves into the realities of factory workers in places like Bangladesh and Columbia. It puts a face behind the garments so many throw on and throw away. Stepping far behind the scenes of your favorite mall stop, you'll see a story behind every thread, of people who can't afford what they make, and what they endure during production.
Check the trailer. This is a must-see.
The True Cost is currently available on iTunes, Amazon, DVD, and Blu-ray.
For more on labor issues in fashion, click here.
While many see fashion and the industry at large to be frivolous and superficial, it's actually a billion-dollar market with many very serious issues. Garment production is one of the most serious--especially when it comes to the working conditions employees are subject to.
The fast-fashion niche, you know--the likes of Forever 21, H&M, Zara, etc.--have created their own place in the industry. This segment has many positives, particularly for young shoppers, shoppers on a budget, and anyone needing something trendy in a hurry. However, negatives have come along with this market, too. They've been on the receiving end of lawsuits for infringement on high fashion/designer styles, discriminatory hiring practices, and the labor conditions of their factories. Fast-fashion is all about filling the racks in a hurry. Someone has to make those garments--often under harsh conditions.
Things have changed drastically over the last few decades. In the 1960s, 95% of American attire was made right here in the states. Now, that number is flipped to about 97% produced overseas.
Executive Producer Livia Firth of The True Cost, a documentary digging deep into a number of these issues, noted at the NY screening "We are sold this myth that to buy a dress for under $10 is democratic--but it's democratic for who? We discard faster and faster, and that is how the consumer becomes poorer and poorer. 2 of the 10 richest men in the world are the owners of Zara and H&M. I think it says a lot about how they make their money."
Her film delves into the realities of factory workers in places like Bangladesh and Columbia. It puts a face behind the garments so many throw on and throw away. Stepping far behind the scenes of your favorite mall stop, you'll see a story behind every thread, of people who can't afford what they make, and what they endure during production.
Check the trailer. This is a must-see.
The True Cost is currently available on iTunes, Amazon, DVD, and Blu-ray.
For more on labor issues in fashion, click here.